lots of questions on how I did the glue effects on the dwarven forge tiles

lots of questions on how I did the glue effects on the dwarven forge tiles

I didn't paint the slimes - I got colored glue sticks from amazon - just make sure you get the correct size for your glue gun, most colored sticks are for the mini glue gun.... only a few are made for full size glue guns...(don't try to stick the wrong size in a glue gun).  ;-)  here's my learning xp on trying that(and how to fix the glue gun afterwards).  change glue sticks for the mixed colors.  kind of mix them together slowly.  red/burgandy is great as it looks like it just ate something
http://realminis.blogspot.com/2013/10/fixing-glue-gun.html

the extended "reaching" look   put on the glue and let cool enough so its not running, but still moves, tilt the tile and use gravity.... careful if its still too runny, as it will want to keep going and detach like a drip.... i found i had to keep tilting it back and forth if too running and even flip back and go back in, then try again when not so runny.

One on the right used this gravity effectfrom tilted tile  to reach out, one on the left, just dripped glue down the wall

webbing was just adding a thin strip of glue at a time and layering

layered thin trail slime effect

And the folding looking part - is carefully blowing on the glue to warp it a bit ( you can use a straw so you don't get your face so close)

bottom of slime below gravity effect - used a straw to blow the glue into the crevices and get the warped folded look

77043: Eye Beast painted blue

77043: Eye Beast - One of my favorite reaper bones from KS I - went with a blue/purple theme, as I already have many orange/brown beholders

Various slimes

slime with skeleton bones rising up to take a peek

slime with skeleton bones rising up to take a peek

Watery slime with blood mixed in

slime with an arm sticking out

green slime

green slime

entrail colored slime that ate a dice

slime with skeleton bones rising up to take a peek

slime with skeleton bones rising up to take a peek

large slime with depression that a medium mini can fit in - here eating a trollop

large slime with depression that a medium mini can fit in - here eating a trollop

slimy green slime rising up to eat a trollop

green slime with blood in it

green slime with blood in it and clear parts eating a trollop

green slime with blood in it - think this was one of the best - blood and green mixed nicely

green slime with blood in it - think this was one of the best - blood and green mixed nicely - eating a trollop

green slime - arm reaching out

green slime eating a trollop, body can be vaguely seen in it

green slime eating a trollop body parts can be vaguely seen in it

Dwarven Forge's Game Tiles plus slime equals awesome

One thing thats great about having soooo many DF tiles is that some can be dedicated to other things - such as a few slimy slimes.....   5 sets gives me lots of extras for fun stuff like below.   Painted some of my tiles and then slimed them up.

Dwarven Forge's Game Tiles plus slime equals awesome

The various Dwarven Forge Game Tiles were decorated with yellow and green hot glue to make the slime

The various Dwarven Forge Game Tiles were decorated with yellow and green hot glue to make the slime.  This one has a great starburst pattern.

The various Dwarven Forge Game Tiles were decorated with yellow and green hot glue to make the slime

The various Dwarven Forge Game Tiles were decorated with yellow and green hot glue to make the slime.  This one looks like something coming out of the slime to grab you

The various Dwarven Forge Game Tiles were decorated with yellow and green hot glue to make the slime.  The mummy tries to command the slime and fails (rolled a 1).  ;-)

dome or rising / aggressive slime how too

dome or rising / aggressive slime how too:

start with a puddle of hot glue and cut off a piece of glue stick from another stick at an angle - let it cool for a few seconds so that its not quite as runny, but still liquid enough to stand your glue stick in it.  

let it cool

add a small layer on top - not too much or you will just melt your glue stick

let it cool and keep adding layers after each one cool, don't add too much to any layer, or you risk melting your earlier layers.

starting to take shape

now if you want it to be colored use the color you want - not too thick if you want the opaqueness to come thru nicely on the dome

let it cool

the opaqueness shows up nicely - as you add the layers of green, mix it with more clear/opaque to make a nicely mixed watery slimy looking puddle

viola - it looks like that slime is rising off the table to come and get you

green slime

turned out great!


Final step once you're done and slimes are all cooled - i always wait until at least the next day.

Is to seal the slimes - you can paint 1st if you didn't use the colors you like, but if you don't seal, the slimes will take fingerprints and fuzz can stick to them - this depends on the hot glue you use of course - some glue is better then others.

I have been sealing with 'Rust-Oleum Zinsser 408 Bulls Eye Clear Shellac Spray' - seals great and leaves a nice shiny coat

Painting DF Dwarven Forge as a standard dungeon

SO I started out with painting my DF tiles with the full 4 step process from Stefan's video(minus the random earth stone brick) , and then compared the pre-painted tiles I got.  I think I was in the unique position as I got unpainted base sets and some of my addons painted.... I think a lot of people went all painted or all unpainted(exect a CoS set) or if some did get the painted addons, they didn't get the set of 4 pokorny paints like I did.

So once I was done painting the 1st batch I did - I compared it to the DF factory painted, and I realized a couple of things.

I painted the right and left tiles - middle tile is factory painted - notice how much better the earth stone looks as a dry brush - doesn't stick out so much.

1. factory painted looks like it used 2 steps, not 4
2. the drybrush for the factory painted didn't match any of the 4 bottles of pokorny paints(this is why I say it looks like not a lot of people got both painted and unpainted, and the set of paints - or this would have been noticed)
3. the factory painted with 2 steps still looks great, so no need to do 4 steps..... so

I started doing the tiles with just a drybrush of stone edge which was the closest color to the factory dry brush.  I think they turned out great with just this(and saves a lot of time).

But then I also figured out something great.  Instead of the earth stone painted heavy on a single stone.  I used it as a dry brush for random sections of wall - it looks great this way and really gives the wall that old timey "lived" in look like a real old dungeon.

Also for my brushing - I varied the pressure and the wetness to give the dungeon a really variable look, so its not uniform.

I am also going to be adding some random green highlights for mold/algae, and some reddish highlights for old blood.

but you get a great looking dungeon with:
1. drybrush of stone edge everywhere
2. hits of earth stone randomly

painted next to unpainted before adding the final layer of dry brushing with stone edge 

painted next to unpainted before adding the final layer of dry brushing with stone edge 

painted next to unpainted before adding the final layer of dry brushing with stone edge 

after adding the final layer of dry brushing with stone edge 

earth stone looks great on the barrels

painted and earth stone added as a dry brush